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If you want to get an argument started about motorcycle oil, just ask a group of motorcycle owners whether synthetic or petroleum-based oil is best for their engines and then ask why motorcycle oil costs so much more. You'll find some very, very strong opinions on these issues.

A while back, a Donny Petersen article appeared in American Iron magazine where he recommended synthetic oil for motorcycles. Harley-Davidson challenged his recommendations. ExxonMobil then provided information about synthetic motorcycle oil and the advantages of the synthetics. There are clearly two strongly divided camps about this topic.

For years, research results lauding the advantages of synthetics have been published. In fact, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has reported the benefits. Some of the benefits attributed to synthetic motorcycle oil products have been improved fuel economy, more power, less friction, better temperature control, increased engine life, less part failures and more. Sure, a car is not a motorcycle, but an engine is an engine - isn't it?

Well, one significant difference between motorcycles and cars is that the motorcycle, at least in most cases, doesn't have a radiator and water coolant system to maintain engine temperature. Most motorcycle power houses are cooled by the flow of air around the engine, dissipating the heat build up. The rear cylinder in a V-Twin engine will run hotter than the front cylinder as a result of this air cooling system. When the engine gets too hot, that is a bad thing. Yet, synthetic motorcycle oil producers and supporting research both indicate that synthetic oil helps keep the engine temperature down.

Another question that begs to be answered is: What is so different about motorcycle engine oils than automobile engine oils? Why do we pay double, triple or even more for motorcycle oil to put in our motorcycle engines that we pay for the engine oil we put in our cars? Whether petroleum-based or synthetic, this price difference is always there.

Of course, after investing our money and time into building or buying just the perfect motorcycle, no one wants to use the wrong product and damage the engine of our well-loved sleds. But then, I don't want to damage the engine of my classic Ford Mustang, either. Having to do a rebuild on either engine is not something I plan for the immediate future.

So, if the motorcycle oil manufacturers are telling me the truth that motorcycle oil is so different and so much better than automotive motor oil and that synthetic oil shouldn't be used in my motorcycle, perhaps I should be using the more expensive motorcycle oil in my cage, right? Well, the bottom line is that motorcycles and cars are NOT the same and there are some differences in the oils that need to be considered. Let's look at these differences and then, you can determine for yourself whether to choose motorcycle-specific or automobile oil, petroleum-based or synthetic motorcycle oil in your bikes engine.

Differences To Consider When Choosing Engine Oil

Viscosity is one of the issues that are important when considering engine oil. But what, exactly, IS viscosity? According to John C. Woolum, PhD a Professor of Physics and motorcycle enthusiast who, in 1994, performed research on car vs. bike oils, defines viscosity as: "a measure of the friction between two layers of a liquid sliding relative to one another." Maintaining viscosity during the high operating temperatures and through the grueling transmission lubrication process is something that must occur to make an oil product effective for your chopper engine. Dr. Woolum that revealed that viscosity retention in automotive oils was frequently equal to, or even greater than, that for oil products labels as motorcycle oil.

Other things that Dr. Woolum found during his research include the fact that synthetic oils experience a drop in viscosity more slowly than petroleum oils when used in the exact same ways. The largest drop in viscosity occurred during the first 800 miles or less of use. His research also indicated that motorcycles are, in fact, much harder on engine oil that automobiles. There was not a clear difference in his findings as to any ways that automobile oil was better than motorcycle oil, whether petroleum or synthetic.

Friction modifiers are another issue. Cars benefit from friction modifiers. However, if you look at your custom chopper engine documentation, you will probably find a warning not to use any oil with graphite of molybdenum additives. This is because wet clutches clip when very low viscosity oil or oil with these additives is used. Read the label of any oil you put in your custom chopper and be sure it does not have these additives in large amounts.

If your motorcycle engine handbook indicates that you should only use a specific oil, many are afraid that their warranty will be voided if they use any other product. The Magnusson-Moss Act says, simply put, that an original equipment manufacturer cannot base their warranty on making a consumer use an OEM part or fluid unless that part of fluid is provided to the consumer free of charge.

So what's the real bottom line? The fact is that the choice is yours. There are very good automotive motor oils that some of my friends use in their bikes, while others wouldn't even THINK of putting something in their engines that didn't say clearly on the label that is was created specifically for motorcycles. Some of my friends are completely sold on the fact that synthetic motorcycle oil doesn't break down as quickly and wouldn't use anything else - in their motorcycles or their cars. Others choose to stick with the dinosaur oil. As long as you choose a top-of-the-line oil product that meets the specs for your engine, the choice is yours. from my own personal experience using Castrol has resulted in a lower engine temperature in the V-twins that I have worked on.

 

 

 

A chopper conversion kit is an easy way to turn your stock motorcycle into a customized chopperThese are fairly new to the marketplace and allow you to get the look and ride of a chopper without having to modify your stock frame at all. In fact, if you decide you really don't like the feel of the chopper or want to go back to the stock look, it isn't that difficult to reverse the process, returning your motorcycle to its original configuration.

By employing a conversion kit rather than doing a ground-up build, the difficult to perfect triple tree rake alteration, or mixing and matching methods, you'll end up with results you can predict. Plus, the cost of a chopper conversion kit is small compared to the cost of a new custom chopper built by a professional.

The key behind the chopper conversion kit is that they contain carefully designed triple trees that create a new steering axis and a new rake. They also include longer front forks so that you get the look of the custom chopper with a fraction of the cost and work of a frame change or any other method.

The concept of the custom chopper kit works for Harley-Davidsons or any make of bike. You'll find conversions available in kit form for every year, make, and model from most of the after-market parts sources online or locally.

Now, you have to understand that conversion kits are made to the specifications of every model to allow you to get that rake and stretch look you want. Because there is a lot of design work that goes into getting the kits for chopper conversions so they both appear and feel just like the more expensive ground up builds, and they must be designed so they maintain the level of safety of the original motorcycle, which isn't an easy task itself, the kit to convert your stock ride into a custom chopper isn't going to be inexpensive. In fact, you could spend almost as much as if you did a mix and match conversion yourself.

So, why would you use the chopper conversion kit if it isn't inexpensive? The main reason you want the kit approach is because the complex engineering details and all those complex mathematic formulas are figured out for you. You do not have to wonder if you are calculating correctly as you lower your frame, rake the triple trees and add the longer forks. If you do not get all your calculations just right, you can end up with a chopper that isn't safe to ride, isn't comfortable to ride, or just doesn't look quite right.

Another advantage of using the chopper conversion kit is that it is a much faster process than any of the other methods of turning a stock ride into a chop. You can get the conversion accomplished and get in the wind quickly and reasonably easily. Everything you need will be included in the kit except tools and labor!

You should expect a chopper conversion kit to include the top and bottom triple trees, a bottom adapter which spaces the bottom tree to create the rake, extended fork tubes, extended brake lines and speedometer cable, as well as adapters for headlamp and gauges. There may be some other spacers included for fender, wheel and brake caliper. When installing a conversion kit, you can expect to reuse your existing front wheel, brake, headlamp, risers, handlebars and lower legs. Many of these kits can be installed in a single day if you got at it to get it done.

The chopper conversion kits allows you to achieve much more than the small 5 or, at the very most, 6 degree rake possible before you end up with a trail that becomes so small that the chopper will become a danger to ride.

And, remember, if you don't like the results, you can always remove the chopper conversion kit and go right back to your stock configuration by simply saving the original parts you replaced with those that arrived in the kit box. So, there's really no commitment. The chopper conversion kit is a great solution for someone tackling their just chopper build.

If your wanting to change your sprocket over to a pully setup or vice versa remember to heat the bolts that hold the sprocket or pully to the wheel. They are loctited at the factory. I prefer to use a torch at low flame but some people prefer a heat gun. Which ever your use be sure to measure the sprocket to wheel distantance once installed and to torque the bolts back to the proper the proper torque lbs for your wheel. 

This is also a very important and critical issue. There is a significant difference between pipe and tubing. The mechanical values are very different.

· Pipe is measured on the ID (inside diameter).

· Tubing is measured on the OD (outside diameter).

This is the one that started it all! The No-Mar Classic model was born of frustration and inspired by quality and simplicity. This manual tire changer has everything you need to change most tubeless tires in the garage or at the track. The Classic model can be purchased with or without the stand for optional bench top mounting. This model can also be un-bolted from the stand or bench for maximum portability on track days. Bolt it directly to your trailer deck, or use our innovative No-Mar Hitch Mount.

http://www.nomartirechanger.com 

Make your rides wide with wide tire conversion kits! Wide rear tires are the rage today when it comes to choppers. However, stock motorcycles usually have two tires of the same size. If you want to change to the new wide tire look, you can do it with a conversion kit.

Of course, you'll need to purchase the wide tire, and depending on the kit you choose, you will probably need a new, wider rear fender. But the conversion kit will have everything else you need to make the change successful. You could buy the parts ala carte, but why bother when you can get a wide tire conversion kit that has everything you need to make the change within only a couple of hours of your time.

 The wide tire conversion kit should contain, as a minimum the wider swing arm, axel, primary spaces, and other hardware required to install the kit. Some kits will include a wide fender that is ready to paint or even the tire in the size you desire. Few, if any, wide tire conversion kits will include the rear wheel, not even those which provide the fender and tire, but some may include a rear shock

It may seem as if wide tires have only been popular for the last few years, but in reality, the process began much longer ago than you probably expect. Men returning from World War II who loved motorcycles wanted to turn their new cycles into customized machines. Many of these soldiers had first begun riding while in the war. Some of these bikers customized this cycles by adapting a car tire to the rear to get the first fat tire look.

One version of the history of the wide tire conversion indicates that at age 16 Gary Chipp, a son of the owner of C&C Cycle in Iowa, bet his father he could modify an Electra Glide from to accept a 240 series tire and still be able to use the factory saddlebags on the cycle. He was able to win the bet. This was a major change from the 140 tires that had been standard previously.

Today, the 300 series tires are very popular for creating the rear fat tire look. You can install the wide tire conversion kit yourself for the most part or you can have your local motorcycle professional tackle the job for you.

Widre tire conversion kits are easy to find. Your local shop can order them for you. But be sure you get a full listing of all the parts you will get with your order.

Shopping for a chopper engine and building a custom chopper is quite an experience. For truly a custom chop, you want a custom engine fully
dressed out in all its chromed glory. There are three common ways to go about obtaining your engine.

The first, and perhaps most common way for a beginner in the art of chopper building, is to purchase a running stock motorcycle with a good engine and clear title. That engine can be cleaned, checked out and placed into your custom chopper frame, some chrome added here and here for flash and you are ready to roll. If you use an engine for your custom chopper that you have owned and ridden for a while, you will be well aware of the mileage and whether it is a good idea to rebuild the engine while it is being moved to a custom frame. If you aren't certain whether it needs to be rebuilt or not, then it is best to err on the side of prudence and go ahead and do the rebuild while it is out of the frame. This can save your tons of time later on.

When choosing this first method of obtaining a custom chopper engine, be absolutely certain that you obtain clear title to the motorcycle before taking the engine out and document the process so that you can obtain a builder's title for the finished motorcycle. If you choose to customize the existing frame into a custom chopper frame, then you can actually simply keep the same title to the motorcycle, but be certain the VIN on the title accurate states the engine VIN.

The second way to obtain your custom chopper engine is to purchase a brand new engine. RevTech and S&S both make some really awesome engines in various sizes like the 80, 88, 100 and 110 cubic inch engines. These brand new, spotless, shiny engines are a great solution for your custom chopper engine needs. These V-Twins look and sound like Harley engines except they don't carry the Harley Davidson name. You can dress the engine up with chrome studs and a custom air filter and you'll be able to have just the look you want for your custom chopper engine.

This option can be more expensive than buying a motorcycle and rebuilding the engine yourself. But you can be sure the engine is in working order without having to do any work to it yourself except for customizing it with any bells and whistles you desire.
You can even choose to purchase an entire drive train. You do get a factory warranty with this option if you purchase from a reputable company. Beware, however, that some less reputable companies offer lower prices by buying engine kits and assembling them. You do not have the benefit of any warranty with these engines. It's a case of buyer beware.

The third way to get your custom chopper engine is to purchase a custom chopper motorcycle kit that includes everything you need to assemble your chopper. These are new engines and are already matched for the tranny, frame and other components to ensure you get a well-designed chopper. This is a great way to go because you get the fully assembled engine and everything else you need to complete your chopper quickly and - well some say - easily. Don't kid yourself; there is nothing easy about building a custom chopper but it can be a lot of fun.

Whichever way you choose to obtain your custom chopper engine, be sure carefully select the parts you need and be prepared to obtain a builder's title if necessary. Save each and every receipt, bill of sale and information on every single part that goes into your custom chopper. You'll be happy you did when you are ready to get your safety certification and title. The worst heartbreak is building a custom chopper only to learn that you can't obtain a title and legally ride your beautiful creation.

First of all the best way to bend tubing is to use a 'tubing bender'. Heating and bending tubing for structural sections of a frame is not recommended. Heating any metal physically changes the molecular structure and many times modifies the strength and brittleness. Getting the right temperature is the key to not distorting the 'inner' strength of any tube. Where to heat and the direction to bend are additional variable when working with compound bends and seamed tubing.

If you are unsure of proper temps, bend directions, and angles, a tube bending machine or mandrel tubing bender is the best way to go. Simple bends rarely interfere with the strength integrity of the material while retaining very good accuracy.

There is really no need for a computer controlled, hydraulic mandrel bender unless you are looking to get into production work.

Stay away for inexpensive pipe benders - the dies will not fit tubing and the benders themselves are usually not heavy duty enough for any quality work. There are many quality manual tubing benders available for not much money. For a good, quality tubing bender try JD Squared in Ocala, Florida (www.jd2.com)

Motorcycle soft tail frames are also known as "swing arm frames" for
the swing arm which provides the soft ride. Motorcycles with soft frames ride quite different than those with rigid frames. The kidney-jolting road bumps feel much smoother and most riders find these bikes more comfortable for long trips.


How, exactly, does the softtail frame and swing arm assembly work to provide the softer ride? The rear tire of the cycle must be connected to the frame. The difference between the two frame types is the way in which this connection is made.

A soft tail frame swing arm contains a pivot joint between the rest of the frame and the rear wheel assembly which supports the wheel and the rear suspension. Also, in a softtail, there is rear suspension, including shock absorbers which remove some of the bumps that can be so hard on the rider's back.

The soft tail swing arm attaches to the frame behind the center of gravity on the motorcycle and the pivot joint is almost always higher than the hub of the rear wheel. This provides stability and prevents 'squat' when accelerating.


Stock motorcycles are soft tails. Custom built bikes can have either type of frame and many of the highly customized cycles have hard time frames rather. For riders that really prefer the comfort of the softail frame ride, there is no reason not to fully customize a swing arm frame. Even choppers, raked and lowered with long, extended fork assemblies can be built around a swing arm frame.

So, you might ask why some people strongly prefer a soft tail frame over a rigid frame. It's really simple; it is difficult to enjoy long road trips where most of the day is spent on the pavement which is frequently less than smooth.

As more and more motorcycle enthusiasts, many of which are baby boomers, get a bit older, comfort can be a major factor. No longer are motorcycles something that only the young ride for transportation. It's not uncommon to see groups of motorcycles ridden by retirees heading to Bike Week, Biketober Fest, or another major motorcycle gathering. America is aging and therefore more riders are older and seek the comfort factor.

One major difference between soft tail frames and the hard tail frame is the way the road feels to the rider. Hardcore bikers tend to love the way the hard tail allows the feel of the road to be felt through the frame, making the rider feel almost as if they are part of the road.

Is a soft tail frame the right choice for you? That is a question only you can answer. It all boils down to your riding stamina, how much you love that sense of feeling the road through the wheels, up into the frame and into your body, and sometimes just by what motorcycle you are accustomed to riding.

The Metal Lathe is not a necessary shop tool but is very helpful when making bungs, grips, pegs, spacers and other small parts. A large machine is not necessary for most projects - though small 'hobby' machines will not be heavy duty enough. A 7" to 9" machine will fit any bike shop just fine. Both instruction and experience will be necessary for successful machining of tapers and threads."

Here are a couple of quick tips

Metal lathes are top heavy, so if you are moving one around your shop, consider haveing a pal help you. Do it by yourself and you may tip it over and damage it, or something in your shop.

Keep your working area clear. If you trip on something and fall into a moving lathe, you better have a good plastic surgeon...or health insurance.

Wear tight fitting clothes. Be sure you clothes are nice and snug. Long hair? Cut it off..ok, you don't have to do that, but make sure it's well out of the way. If you wear a tie, jewelry, or anything that might have the slightest chance of getting caught, take it off. Getting these things caught in a lathe is a ticket to a long stay at a nice hospital...if you're lucky.

Wear protection for your eyes. This is pretty self explanitory.

Eastman has a very good 3 in 1 Multi Purpose Mill-Drill Metal Lathe  

A Tig welder specializes in fusing pieces of aluminum together. Tig is also referred to as tungsten inert gas. It's used to blend together aluminum and magnesium among other metals.

 

During the tig procedure, welds are created between the electrode and the surface that is being worked on. A clean weld is produced as a gas sheild is formed. Using a TIG welder allows you to create various joints, for example: butt, corner, T, and lap joints.

"The Tig Welder (Tungsten Inert Gas also GTAW - Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) - often referred to as HeliArc - will be the center point of most any shop. Most mid range Tig machines operate off of common 220v current and will require a compressed shielding gas - most commonly Argon. Whe it comes to Tig, both instruction and experience will be necessary for a successful weld. Most mid range machines will weld various materials such as mild and stainless steel, chrome moly, aluminum, copper, brass and others in virtually any thickness from razor blade to 1/2"+. The Tig weld will be the finishing touch to any welding project. If your projects requires top quality, clean and strong welds - Tig is the way to go!"

As they say: "A building is only as good as its foundation." If you start construction on a foundation that is not sturdy or is poorly designed, you are asking for trouble. The same goes for motorcycles. What is your riding style? Are you looking for form over function? Will this be a daily rider or a bike that does parade duty? These, as well as other questions, must be answered before an intelligent frame decision can be made.

As important as the driveline is for a motorcycle, your first concern should be the frame.

To get a better understanding of what makes a frame, a frame, we went to Daytec Center, located in Hesperia, California, where owner Phil Day brought out three popular frame styles -- a rigid, a Softail, and a rubber mount. He then went through each design and explained the differences between them.

At this point, an explanation of pertinent terms is in order, see figure 1 for reference. A Softail-style frame is used here for illustration purposes only.

PLEASE REFER TO THE IMAGE AT THE TOP FOR THE FOLLOWING DEFINITIONS

A: Hidden axle adjusters: Mild steel plates, machined to accept a rear axle, are adjusted by means of an Allen screw in front of the plate.

B: Swingarm: The rear portion of the frame used to hold the rear wheel in place. The swingarm is attached to the frame by means of the pivot axle. A suspension system bolted between the frame and swingarm is used to cushion and limit the movement of the swingarm.

C: Side Plates: Cold-rolled steel pieces are machined to accurately hold the pivot axle. The plates (there are two of them) are welded to the wishbone tubes on the top and on the bottomrail tubes on the bottom.

D: Pivot Axle: A solid steel, round stock fastens to the side plates and, it provides a pivot point for the swingarm.

E: Transmission Plate: A machined steel plate to which the transmission is bolted. This plate may be bolted to or welded to the frame.

F: Oil Tank/Oil Bag: A sheetmetal tank that holds oil for the engine's lubrication system.

G: Center Post: A tube welded between the backbone and a crossbrace to add rigidity to the frame.

H: Wish Bone Tubes: Tubes bent to create space for the seating area. They are welded to the top tube in the front and the side plates in the rear.

I: Seat Clip: A small bracket is used to anchor the front of the seat.

J: Top Motor Mount Bracket: A heavy steel bracket welded to the bottom of the backbone, to secure the motor.

K: Motor Mounting Plates: Two steel plates that allow the motor to be bolted to both the front and center of the frame, using a standard engine bolt pattern.

L: Neck Gusset: A flat steel piece is welded to the backbone, neck stem, bottom rails, and neck gusset tube. The neck gusset is used to add strength to this critical area of the frame by spreading the stress and load over a large area.

M: Bottom Rails: Bottom rails (there are two of them) are welded to the neck stem at the front and the side plates at the rear. The vertical portions are sometimes referred to as the downtubes.

N: Forward Control Adaptors: Threaded lugs that are used for mounting the forward controls.

O: Neck Gusset Tube: A frame strengthening member that ties the bottom rails to the backbone.

P: Gas Tank Mounting Plate: A flat steel plate that allows the gas tank to be secured to the frame.

Q: Neck Stem: A machined steel piece that is fit with bearings or bearing cups that will be used to support the frontend.

S: Top Tube/Backbone: A frame member that fits the space between the steering neck and the wishbone tubes.

 

Stretch and Rake:

Stretch is a word that gets tossed around quite a bit when it comes to custom motorcycles. Although stretching a frame is a very simple concept, it is widely misunderstood.

Simply stated, stretching a motorcycle is changing the length of the backbone and bottom rails (the downtube portion of them) to move the steering neck to a more desirable position.

This repositioning may be done to change the handling characteristics of the motor-cycle, fit the frame to the rider, or more often than not, to give the motorcycle a particular look, i.e. long and low or a high neck.

If a customer orders a frame with 4 inches of backbone stretch, the frame builder will use a longer backbone and modified bottom rails.

There is a common misconception that there are pieces of tube welded into the existing framerails -- this is not the case. It is easier and more precise to calculate the new tube lengths and build the frameto its desired dimensions from the start.

In the case of a 2-inch upward stretch, the steering neck would be raised 2 inches from its stock position. Daytec's frame jigs are designed with a 15-degree rail used to locate the steering neck. When the shop raises the neck 2 inches, the measurement is taken along this 15-degree angle. This means that 2 inches will need to be added to the bottom rails in order to reach the new position of the steering neck.

When adding backbone stretch of 2 inches, a measurement is taken from the centerline of the rear axle (in the case of a rigid) or the pivot axle (on a bike with a swingarm). The neck is then moved 2 inches away from and perpendicular to that centerline. Next, calculations are made to determine the length and any bends that may be needed in the new backbone and bottom rails. From there, the frame is welded up in a jig as usual.
s is increased. Conversely, as neck rake is decreased, steering becomes more responsive at lower speeds, but high speed stability is adversely effected." src="http://images.hotbikeweb.com/tech/0302hb_trems04.jpg"
While we're discussing how to move the steering neck, it would be appropriate to talk about rake angle. Rake is expressed in degrees based on the measurement between the line perpendicular to the bottom rails and the line extended through the axis of the steering neck. As this angle is increased, steering response is slowed down and stability at higher speeds is increased. Conversely, as neck rake is decreased, steering becomes more responsive at lower speeds, but high speed stability is adversely effected.

Trail

Trail is a measurement of the relationship between neck rake, fork length and style, wheel diameter, and triple trees. This measurement is an important aspect in the handling of a motorcycle. A trail measurement between 2 and 4 inches is the norm.

To measure trail, start by holding a tape measure straight up and down from the front axle to the floor. Put a mark on the floor at that point. Then place the tape parallel to the steering axle, following the angle of the steering head all the way down to the floor. Put a mark here, too. Now all you have to do is measure the distance between the two marks, and you have your trail figure. It should read between 2 and 4 inches. (Note: If your bike is equipped with rear suspension, then have someone sit on the seat when you make these measurements, in order to simulate actual riding conditions).

To measure trail, start by holding a tape measure straight up and down from the front axle to the floor. Put a mark on the floor at that point. Then place the tape parallel to the steering axle, following the angle of the steering head all the way down to the floor. Put a mark here, too. Now all you have to do is measure the distance between the two marks, and you have your trail figure. It should read between 2 and 4 inches.

Somewhere between 2 to 4 inches, the bike will handle easily at both high and low speeds, flowing smoothly through curves without swaying or wobbling. If you use a very fat rear tire, you should keep the trail as close to 4 inches as possible. A slightly larger trail is also practical for touring.

If the trail is more than 4 inches, the bike will handle sluggishly at high speeds. It will seem almost too steady. You will have trouble balancing your bike at lower speeds or on winding roads. It will feel generally sluggish and clumsy.





One look at the rear of our rigid, and it's obvious that there is no suspension present. Once the 250-series tire and wheel is introduced to the rear axle, the air in the tire will be all the cushioning available to the rider.

The suspension for a Softail is designed to give the appearance and lines of a rigid frame, while still affording the rider the opportunity of a working suspension. A triangular swingarm is mated to the frame via the solid pivot axle. Smoothing out the bumps are reverse-operation shock absorbers that mount to links on the bottom front of the swingarm and under the transmission mounting plate.

More traditional rear suspension is used on this rubber-mount frame. A beefy 1-1/2-inch single tube swingarm is connected at its foremost point to the frame near the pivot axle. The rear of the swingarm is united with the frame via a set of shocks that spans the gap that are created between the shock towers (2) on the top and the shock mounting lugs (2) on the swingarm.


One very important aspect of any frame is how the motor and transmission are mounted to it. A strong, solid connection between the driveline and the frame ensures a predictable and dependable union of the two. This rigid frame uses a 1/2-inch machined steel plate that is welded to the frame to hold the transmission. The motor mounts are also welded to the frame between the center tube and the downtubes. The top of the motor is then secured to the top motor-mount bracket.

In a Softail frame, the driveline mounting is similar to the rigid. Various motor and transmission combinations are mounted to the frame differently; Evos and Twin Cams are mounted in the same manner as the rigid frame. In the case of the Twin Cam Balanced motor, the motor and transmission are bolted directly together, while the transmission has a machined bore that the pivot axle passes through, linking it to the frame for a strong and stable connection.

The rubber-mount frame (such as Dynas, FXRs, FLHs, and others) uses a completely different method of securing the motor and transmission. The pivot axle passes through the rear of the transmission and uses rubber bushings to isolate it from the frame. The front of the transmission is then bolted to the rear of the motor, and the front of the motor gets secured to a rubber motor mount via a stabilizing link. Another stabilizing link connects the top of the motor to the top motor-mount bracket. These links are used to adjust the driveline's position in relation to the frame. This type of mount provides the rider with a smooth ride with very little vibration.


One of the first steps in frame production is bending the tubing to the proper shape. Shown here is a computer-controlled, hydraulically operated bender that produces consistent parts.

The ends of the tubing must be machined to the proper profile in order to fit tightly to the part it will be mated to.

Once all of the tubing has been cut, bent, and prepped with the mounts and brackets machined, it's time to load the frame jig with the parts. The jig is precision-built from heavy steel in order to accurately hold and locate all the parts so they can be welded. This jig is partially loaded with components.

Custom chopper frames. There are many to choose from. Once you have decided to build







your custom chopper the biggest and most important decision you will make will be what frame to use. A solid, well conceived custom chopper frame is crucial to the success of your custom chopper.
Your chopper frame not only dictates how your chopper will look, but how your custom chopper will ride as well.

It is imperative when you begin building your custom chopper that you have a design for your frame in mind. Do not just take the first custom chopper frame that comes your way. If you were an artist, the frame of your custom chopper would be your paint. Think of it that way. An artist does not use any kind of paint they create their painting. The paint is what makes it what it is, through the colors, the design, and the durability and confidence that it will last.

 When building a custom chopper the same will be true of your custom chopper frame. It is the basis for your whole chopper and it has to be picked out and built with care.


Chopper frames (or a stock chopper frame) are the backbone of custom choppers. Without the right chopper frame your custom chopper will have nothing to hold it together. And it holds a lot of heavy duty parts...

It is also important to know the differences between the various types of chopper frames. For example, when buying a wide frame for your custom chopper you must know if the engine or transmission will need an offset. This is one of several important factors in building and designing your custom chopper frame.

When you make the move to start looking for your custom chopper frame you will need to make a few decisions. One important question, that pertains to chopper frames is, do you want a wide chopper frame or a standard chopper frame?

It is important to remember when picking out your custom chopper frame that the more tubing wall thickness your custom chopper frame has, the better.

There are a few different types of chopper frames you can choose from for your custom chopper: Softail, FXR, Rigid and Sportster.

The Sportster Frame

The sportster frame is used when making Sportster motorcycles. Sportster frames have different types as well. For instance the Hardtail Chassis is a sportster frame that allows for the chopper to have large tires on it.

The Rolling Chasis

If the style of the hardtail chassis isn’t for you, try a Rolling Chassis. A rolling chassis can be any rigid, swingarm, or soft tail style frame with any rake or stretch in the backbone or the downtubes, combined with a front and rear wheel assembly, front end, and usually at least some of the tin.

Sportsters can also have softail frames. These custom chopper frames have no stretch and take a standard 180mm wheel base but the wheel can also be customized if you prefer that.

The FXR Frame

The FXR frames can endure rugged terrain, rough riding, and are durable with more suspension than other motorcycle frames offer. They are great to have for racing bikes and dirt bikes.

The Rigid Frame

Finally, there are Rigid frames. Rigid frames are angled upward and have a stretched frame in most instances.

No matter what you choose, your chopper frame will be one of the most distinctive parts of your custom chopper. Remember your chopper frame is the essence of your custom chopper. When buying your custom chopper look for strength because you will feel it in the ride.